Stay tuned - (ir)regular transmission will soon be resumed

Its been almost a year since my last post. Thanks to the Great Firewall, I was unable to access the 'regular' internet and make the  usual digital deposits on Blogger, twitter and largely been away from Facebook. During this time, I have - been to Shanghai, visited Beijing in the 'fog', frozen my behind off in Harbin, explored Dalian and ofcourse, have moved back to India.

Coming up on this blog sometime soon -


  • Surprising things about China 
  • Ice, Ice Baby
  • Toddler Travel Travails


Zaijian!

Trampled byY Trip at Wednesday, March 13, 2013 1 comments

A dark side

Moderator: Yang Rui


Racism is a pretty ugly word and a harder pill to swallow when you first encounter it. Having lived and traveled in different countries, having worked and being friends with many many kinds of people from many countries it was always something that happened to someone else. I just pretended that it can't happen to me and ignored it as one of those things that you read. While its true that most aspects of racism are more subtle than overt, when it finally gob-smacks you in the face, you are left reeling and wondering "Did that just happen or am I just imagining it".


Trampled byY Trip at Thursday, May 31, 2012 1 comments

What's on, Dalian ?




As usual, I've taken another long break in my writing and since the last post, have moved to Dalian in China. Da-whaat ? This is the same Dalian brought to the rest of the world in 'The World is Flat' and was supposed to be the next Bangalore. In many ways, this port city has surpassed, and at the same time, not lived up to the expectations of what many in the IT industry thought would be the next outsourcing hub in Asia. However, Dalian has been rated in the past as one of the best cities to live in China with its clean air, proximity to the ocean and to mountains. The city that I'll call home for the next year or so seems to have  a bit to offer with its parks, wide open squares and mountain scenery.


Trampled byY Trip at Tuesday, May 01, 2012 7 comments

El Toro

Madrid… not just a load of bull..
When you think of visiting London, the Big Ben and Buckingham Palace come to mind. Paris, brings images of the Eiffel tower and cafes along the Seine. Rome comes with gladiators and the Coliseum. However,  Madrid was one of those places where nothing really stands out. And that is quite a shame. There is lot to do in Madrid and it seems to me that Spain has not done a terribly good job of promoting itself in India. Apart from being the party/clubbing capital of Europe, it is also a major centre for art, culture and of course, sport.

Trampled byY Trip at Thursday, October 28, 2010 3 comments

The Great Wall of meh!

  The Great Wall at Ba Da Ling

The Great Wall as you may have heard is a series of walls built over centuries to defend China from Mongol invaders. The great earth wall stands sentinel over the hills and silently glares down at all who dare to trespass. In this day and age, it stands just as silent, but far from defending, is meekly trodden upon by the millions who visit it from all over the world, just so that they can say ‘I’ve done that’.

Trampled byY Trip at Saturday, October 16, 2010 0 comments

Sultanahmet : a Blast from the past

 The Blue Mosque – Sultanahmet Camii
It’s pretty easy to imagine Aladdin flying his magic carpet around the minarets of the Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque in an attempt to get away from the evil Sultan. The mixture of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture and history that is almost 1500 years old makes this place and this city a  must do on your bucket list. Having been at the crossroads of culture and civilization, Istanbul IS the connection between the east and the west. And Sultanahmet is the center of it all…

Trampled byY Trip at Friday, July 23, 2010 0 comments

A picture for your thoughts

I bought my first digital camera in June 2004 at Fry's store somewhere near Palo Alto, CA. Since then I’m pretty sure that I have taken over 10,000 photographs. There have been numerous occasions where I have needed to choose the  best pictures of a particular set, either categorised by event (birthdays) or by location (Great Wall). In either circumstance, it has been pretty easy since there really is no limitation on the number of photos that I can pick and choose. Even then, it is hard to decide what stays in and what, figuratively, hits the cutting room floor. I had never even thought of my ‘5 Best Travel Pictures’.. until I saw the contest from BlogAdda for the 5 best travel photographs

Trampled byY Trip at Tuesday, June 01, 2010 12 comments

Nazar Pendants and a missed arbitrage opportunity



I know it now. I will never, ever be a shrewd, ice-cold businessman displaying the sharpest of acumen.  No, I am not talking about bottom fishing during a recession and selling out when the market hits the top. Nor am I talking about trading currency futures which was out there for everyone to see. I missed out on a very very lucrative opportunity of selling  Nazar Suraksha Kawach  that keeps coming on late night TV shopping ads all the time. The opportunity of trading these pendants would have been so fruitful that I really could have set myself up for life if I had simply followed common sense and of course, the requisite killer instinct to zoom in on a positive-only cash flow trading situation

Trampled byY Trip at Friday, May 28, 2010 4 comments

Trouble in Bangkok

Looking at @vaitor's timeline on Twitter and reading his blog took me back to the brief visit to Bangkok in early 2007. The country had just come off a coup d'état a few months and the military were still showing off their might with tanks in the main area near the Palace and armed guards. I thought of making this post to quickly write about the few things that I saw and experienced. From the rides on the long-tails to the incessant badgering of the tuk-tuks to the trips to the pearl and emarald 'museums', it was in all, quite fascinating

The Grand Palace by night

Trampled byY Trip at Friday, May 21, 2010 1 comments

In China, do they go to Chinese Restaurants? Or just Restaurants?

"Eat anything with four legs except tables and eat anything that flies except airplanes"
-Ancient Confucian saying, circa 2009 A.D


Typical restaurant table - you will note that my plate is empty

Shanghai is not an easy place to be a foodie. If you eat meat, you have the problem of excess and choices to the heavens. If you are a veggie-foodie, things start getting a little dicey. But you can still manage if you plan your meals very very well, and much in advance and after a lot of research. Oh.. you should also deliberately dull your sense of smell, sight, taste, touch and hearing to just eat in a Shanghainese restaurant



Trampled byY Trip at Thursday, May 06, 2010 8 comments

The REAL World Trade Center



Ancient kingdoms fought wars over trade routes, gambled massive fortunes and bartered away women and pillaged foreign lands just to get the right trade paths and exotic spices to European consumers.Travelers from the west, our man Marco Polo included, must have wondered and gaped at the sacks of spices, bundles of gold and beautiful women of the East. They would also have seen opportunity to bring in goods, trade them for baubles and ultimately control the supplies and the lands around.


Trampled byY Trip at Sunday, April 18, 2010 3 comments

Tales of the Tulip



Legend has it, once upon a time, a lovelorn young man was sitting outside the Hagia Sophia looking quite glum. He was the veritable picture of sorrow since, he had been just turned down by the girl he was courting. He had taken a tulip to give to her and after the rejection had stuck it in his turban and completely forgotten about it.

Trampled byY Trip at Sunday, April 11, 2010 9 comments

Trespassing in the Forbidden City


Quick! What's the first thing that comes to your mind when you think of China and Beijing?

The Great Wall, right ? There's a lot more than just that. You have the Forbidden City, the hutongs, the 'pants building', the Olympic area, numerous palaces, temples and structures that trace the lineage of a city that by some claims has been inhabited for three thousand odd years.


Trampled byY Trip at Monday, March 22, 2010 1 comments

Flash Backs from Lanka


Every now and then, there are moments when you push back the veils of the past and dig into your memories to try to relive those happy occasions again and again. It might be the taste of the payasam made by your grandma during your vacation, fighting with a favorite cousin over a tri-cycle and ultimately breaking it, or it might be learning how to cheat at bluff, donkey, rummy, carom or even hide and seek from your uncle.

Trampled byY Trip at Wednesday, March 17, 2010 4 comments

The heights of Huang Shan

High in the mountains of Anhui Province


When one thinks of Chinese scroll paintings, one thinks of mountains in the background, breaking through cloud cover again and again. It forms a mystical illusion and gives a sense of the mountains having no beginning and no end. You might think that such paintings are just the offspring of an artists fertile imaginations and no such place can exist on earth.

That is until you see the mountains of Anhui province and most particularly, the mountains around Huang Shan (Huángshān, 黄山). The area around Huang Shan is an artist's dream and a poet's muse all rolled into one mist covered vista.

Trampled byY Trip at Tuesday, March 16, 2010 5 comments

In a sea of faces....



There is a common misconception that ALL people of Chinese origin look alike. That is simply not true. Have you seen Yao Ming .. the guy is ginormous ??

But once in a while, it does so happen that confusion arises, often with consequences that are hilarious in retrospect, but at that particular moment is a humongous #facepalm moment.

Trampled byY Trip at Saturday, March 13, 2010 3 comments

China Checkers, Taxi drivers and Shanghai Surprise !


Ok.... so I spent some time in the Middle Country. And yes, it IS a big deal. Especially when you are Indian and a veggie. Especially when you don't speak the language. Especially when its a new job.

But the time I spent there exploring the country to the extent which I could, meeting people, seeing things, eating (or atleast trying to) stuff, understanding the culture and getting by through it all

Trampled byY Trip at Thursday, October 15, 2009 2 comments

Part 9. Exhaustion, Exhilaration, Contentment

My memory of the next few days on the trek consists of a mix of breathless climbs up endless inclines, beautiful vistas and deftly avoiding mule/donkey dung. I'll try my best to recount the rest of the trip as concisely as possible, since I too wish to just get done with this series of postings and hopefully write about the other trips that I have done.

Day Two with a surprise. After some searching and climbing , I find my own personal space behind a rock and begin to commune with nature. Just as the discourse began, I realized that I had parked myself behind a bush adjacent to a path frequented by goats and shepherds. I hastily try to finish my business, only to be surprised by the bleating of some lamb peering at me through the bush it was trying to eat. Once the shock wore off, I looked around to find a shepherd staring at me in surprise. What can I do now.. the only thing that comes to my mind is to say "Juley" and I blurt it out like a fool and to my relief scares off the shepherd and his flock !! I chose to keep this incident under wraps for a while now, but hey.. the truth is out now :)

Once I got back to the camp site we set out towards Kongski La. The rest of the day's trip took us through fields of lavender and mustard which made for many photo opps. I vaguely remembering trudging through really pretty scenery, but being absolutely tired through the whole trip. Every step I took became tougher as my feet got heavier with every incline. So many times, I felt like I just wanted to get into foetal position and die. But my friends refused to give up... I think they bribed me with candy, although I cannot be too sure of that.

The rest of the day, just went by in a blur and one fantastic view after the other came by, but ofcourse, I was quite tired to notice most of it. I took time out to click pictures, eat some sugar candy, drink glucose water and slather on some sunscreen.

From Leh and the great Trek


The trek on the third day took us through a small forested area with a bubbling brook which we used to fill our bottles every now and then. While the water was not clear and was a little cloudy, it was refreshingly cool and very very refreshing.

From Leh and the great Trek


The end of the day's trek through a slight drizzle brought us to camp by the a stream that was clear and fast flowing. After the mandatory rounds of frisbee and endless games of cards by torch light, we started dinner and that's when it all started coming down. The pitter patter of the raindrops turned out to be quite a torrent with hail stones pelting us as we rushed in to our tents with whatever little protection we had.

The next morning, the stream had turned chocolate brown with sediment from the higher reaches and the tops of the mountains around us had a light dusting of snow!

From Leh and the great Trek


Day 4 was all down hill initially and this was the best part of the trek for me. I was in good spirits and some tchang helped a lot. I was quite ahead of the rest of the group and had made really good progress. I felt a lot like Captain Haddock did as he was marching ahead of the rest of the group, until I had to cross a shallow stream and promptly fell in while attempting to !


From Leh and the great Trek


From Leh and the great Trek


My enthusiasm soon waned as the post lunch trek winded up hill once again. Along the way we saw heards of dzo, a cross between yaks and domesticated cows. The irony did not escape me, while they placid chewed the cud or did whatever it is that dzos do, I was huffing and puffing up hill, barely able to place one foot in front of the other and I once again resumed my rightful place at the end of the line. After a tough uphill climb where the
mules once again overtook us enroute to the next campsite, we arrived at Dung Dung Chan La for our last day in the tents.

Final day - The excitement of being the last day trek really pumped us up and the thought of getting to a clean bathroom and wearing fresh clothes was quite motivating.

From Leh and the great Trek


From Leh and the great Trek


For what seemed like hours and hours of a never ending descent through absolutely inhospitable terrain, we slid down gravelly slops, scraped knees and elbows, crossed dangerous chasm and walked tenuously on pathway 10 inches wide and rapelled down a cliff face ( OK.. I made that last one up) we finally came for a lunch stop where I just crashed and slept on the ground in the shade of some trees. At this point, we imagined that it was almost over and our transportation back to Leh is just around the corner.

But ofcourse, it was far from over we still had a few more kilometers to go and all along a stream filled with boulders. This was by far quite strenuous, especially for Prashant since he had shoe bites which gave a pretty rough time. To add to the discomfort, we could not see the rest of the group and had no idea how far we had to go. The flora by this time had changed and we had come below the tree-line. We could see wild brushes, something that looked like apricots, junipers and more.

From Leh and the great Trek


Soon we heard whoops of joy from the rest of the group as they reached Chilling where Hamy and Soumya where waiting for us ( They left the group on day 2 or 3 and headed to Leh). The raw apricots on the trees didnt last long as Suchi, Rajesh and Prashant kept throwing stones to knock them down. I wonder if they had stomach upsets later.. the apricots seemed rather raw.

The jeep ride back to Leh was a haze as we all slept and woke up only once we reached the hotel. After a warm shower and hot meal and a quick nap, we were ready to take on Leh by night. This was the end of a great trek, probably the best I've ever done.

The trip was not quite over though, the next morning we went back to Chilling for a river rafting trip on the Zanskar. After donning protective clothing and helmets, we were given a quick primer on how to steer the raft. Nothing however, could prepare for the cold water that hit us the raft splashed around in the rapids. Although the trip was short, it was quite tiring and we were really really hungry by the end of it. The next morning, I left for Bangalore via Delhi and was home again.

This trip left indelible impressions on me and even now, two years later, I can still feel the ground under my feet, the cold water of the streams, the wind in the trees and can see the stars over Leh. I will cherish this trip forever and hope that this will be the first of many trips.

Trampled byY Trip at Saturday, June 20, 2009 0 comments

Part 8. The First day

We broke camp really early, budled up our sleeping bags , changed inside the tent and packed our ruck sacks. The arrangement we had was quite convenient to novice trekkers suck as ourselves : Our ruck sacks, sleepingbags, tents, vessels and equipment would be carried by mules/donkeys from one campsite to another. The support staff will clear the campsite, fold the tents, pack the equipment and put them all on the mules to the next campsite. Often, they would leave long after we left and would pass us on the trail around lunch time. It was amazing to see how fit and untiring they were! Without them, it would have been quite impossible for us city slickers to make it from one site to another with all that heavy equipment. This arrangement enabled us to carry only a small backpack filled with essentials like a couple of bottle of waters, our lunch boxes and anything else we wanted to carry on the actual trek

After a hearty breakfast and walk along a stream which was running low. We constantly crossed and re crossed the stream. Very often, the stream was too wide for us to jump across and the guides helped place large stones in the middle of the stream which we used as stepping stones.

Spirits were generally high and we trudged up the mountain to reach Pringti-La. Given the level of fitness I was in, I was the last one to reach the top after much huffing and puffing. Each step seemed tougher than the previous one and my lungs were simply screaming out for attention and I was almost always at the end of the line going up. Prashant and Vivek constantly goaded me up kept my now flagging spirits up. Terbej, one of the guides made sure that the tail end of the convoy, namely me, made it in one piece


Terbej, Karthik, Vivek & Sumanth

Reaching the peak was a momentous occassion and an overwhelming feeling of achieving something took over me. The adrenaline rush was exhilarating as I crawled up the last few meters to the top to see the whole group lying down and recouping for the journey downhill. In unision, we raised our voices to proclaim " Khi Khi So So Lar Gya La" to proclaim our success crossing our first Himalayan pass. At every pass, one can see a little pile of rocks and prayer flags


Lacchi at a pass... note the prayer flags


(Pic Courtesy Lachhii)

We descended fairly quickly and as always, the descent was my favorite part of the days trek. The winding downhill path took us over rubble, under piles of boulders and we had numerous cuts and scratches along the way. The noonday sun was unrelenting, and despite the copious amounts of sun block lotion that we slathered on ourselves, my forearms and the back of my neck were beginning to burn to a crisp. As we reached the town of Wanla, we walked on another stony river bed and stopped to snack, rest a little and journey on.

Once we crossed Wanla, we came on to a tar road ( better than the ones in Bangalore) which proved to be the last motorable road we'd see until the end of the trek. We walked all along a river with a very unique irrigation method. Channels are carved out at river level and slope gently downwards, but not at the same gradient as the river. Gravity pushes down water down the irrigation ditches and waters terraced fields on the barren mountain side. It is really wonderful to see innovation among people who do not have access to basic facilities, driven largely by the terrain. Necessity, truly is the mother of invention


(Click view larger image)


The world's hardest trek route
yikes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


A couple of hours of walk over the road brought us to another rest stop, where we had a few snacks and some well deserved rest. The walk on the tar surface was quite tiring and we covered about 8-10 kilometers which was quite hard on the knees.

We rested at a campsite along a , in a grove of trees. The camp site was spartan at best, with a single shack housing the watchman and his family. When we arrived a hose was connected to a tap where we washed up and opened our tiffin boxes and ate what we could. The food went down pretty hard and I personally relished the chocolate bar more than any thing. Through the trip, chocolate bars were the primary source of energy for me.

After lunch, Vivek, Prashant and I scouted around and found steps that led down to the river. We washed up, snoozed a bit, and dipped our tired feet in the icy water. Almost instantly, the tiredness and the soreness vanished. Now, I could truly relate to Messrs. Waters and Gilmour when they were describing being comfortably numb.

Sonam.. our lead guide

We were abruptly woken up from this reverie when one of the others called us up for a 'team meeting'. I sensed something was wrong when people were huddled together talking in hushed tones. There were some concerns as to how the trek was going on and it seemed as if there was an in what what people expected to see en route. As the discussion progressed, I was dismayed to see the group getting fractured so early on! I guess it was the good old group dynamics of "forming-storming-norming-performing" at work. There were some who insisted that we turn back, go to Leh and go on an alternate route at the same cost as what had already been incurred.

I guess people expected alpine scenery and a much gentler walk in the park. Trekking in Ladakh is not easy and demands will power over sheer strength. It takes a lot to plod ahead, putting one step in front of the other, expecting the end of the trail to be just 'beyond the bend'. More often than not, coming around the bend shows just how far you have to go and how little you actually have travelled!

I had spent too much time,money and energy in getting to this point and I was not going to let this split in the group spoil my holiday! luckily, a few others felt the same as I did and Lacchi gave the group time till that evening to decide if the trip should continue.

The incident left a sour taste in the mouth, but I was determined not to let it spoil what was to be one of the most exciting things I've ever done in my life. We walked on and a few kilometers down the road, we reached the campsite at Phanji-La where the porters had reached ahead of us and had begun to set up camp. Once we washed up and had coffee and snacks ( we truly were a pampered lot). We brought out the frisbee and started tossing it around, taking care not to throw it into the portable potty! Somewhere in the background, a goat decided to take matters into its own hands (horns) and enter the tents. we quickly shooed it away and continued with our game.

When it became too dark to play, we retreated into the main tent where we played cards by kerosene lamps, candles and torches. Cards, dumb charades, antakshari and general gossip was the only evening past time that we had for the next few days and I for one, did not miss TV one bit !

The cooks made dinner for us and I as much as I could possibly shove down. The bad food did not account for the lack of appetite... it felt as if I hadn't completely acclimatized yet and altitude sickness had some lingering effects. Also somewhere in the back of my mind, I knew that input = output and any intake of food would mean subsequent output and usage of mountain money. Over the next few days, I learned how to be a very very efficient machine, burning up almost all the food during the hike.

The post dinner session brought back the issue of continuing from thereon and a poll was taken as to who wanted to continue and who didn't. I have never understood the idea behind all the scheming, back biting and deal making in reality shows like Survivor and Amazing Race, but this one instance when people were making cases for themselves and means to seek the ends they wanted was fun and quite an eye opener! I stuck to my guns that the I wanted to continue with the trip and we had enough of a quorum to go ahead with the trek, with the option that who ever wanted to opt out, could turn back and head to Leh, but no refund will be made for having hired the guides, porters and equipment for 6 days. Faced with having to dish out extra money (journey to leh +extra days in hotel+food) , the people who wanted to change plans, decided to go ahead with the trip.

To clear my head and put all this nonsense behind me, I took a walk with Prashant and Vivek along the road. The deafening silence was only broken by the rush of the river in the gorge below. By the dim starlight, you could see the sparse patches of vegetation dark offset against the light brown/khaki background of the mountain side.

That night, we made the decision to sleep under the stars and we arranged for a ground cloth to be laid out and we pulled out the sleeping bags. I must have spent hours just gazing at sky, but after a while, I had to retreat under the tent. I do not remember if it was because it was cold, becasue of bugs or if it started drizzling. The fact was I went back in, and now I wish I had spent the whole night outside! I put up with the snoring in the tents around us and slept blissfully till dawn, awaiting the rest of our journey.



Trampled byY Trip at Saturday, March 28, 2009 2 comments

Part 7. The Road to the Long March

The morning ride took us through mountain side beautiful not despite its barrenness, but because of it. The various hues of greys ,browns, blacks and even purples made up the dramatic scenery all around us. A couple of hours out, we came upon the confluence of the Indus and the Zanskar close to Nimoo. The difference in colours was really apparent as the Zanskar brought down a lot silt and mud as it cut its way through deep gorges on its way down stream.



Far down by riverside a film crew had set up camp and we made our guesses as to who the actors were down there throwing tantrums. After a few photo opps we decided to move on and face the rest of the trip. We descended to Numi(?) where we picked up a few bottles of overpriced mineral water of dubious origins. Water was a concern as everyone of us were pampered city brats who drank bottled water. We had made extensive plans to conserve water through the trip, drinking when necessary and being willing to pay Rs. 25-50 for a 10 rupee bottle. But, as we were to discover in due course, bottled water was not at all necessary right through the trek.


After a quick lunch (yucky dal chaawal )at a roadside stop under some shade, we proceeded to Alchi gompa (monastery) set besides the Indus and a beautiful apricot orchard which was just beginning to ripen. Although there were plenty of other tourists, the setting was really peaceful and I could have spent the rest of the day lying down on a rock under the shade and listening to the river run below us


We set off for Lamayuru and arrived at our campsite to see that the tent had been set up and we enjoyed a hearty snack, followed by rounds of frisbee and a quick hike to the Gompa at Lamayuru

(Pic Courtesy Lacchi)


We snuggled in to the tents after dinner, where the cook managed to whip up some cake and roti and fruits. We walked around along the road near the campsite as we pondered what lies ahead. We stopped by at a shop to listen to the shopkeepers radio for the latest news.

At that moment, then and there, time did not matter.. news did not matter. No one cared for performance reviews or managers or deadlines. No body bothered about work. We were among simple people who lived their simple ways and for a brief period of time, we attempted to be simple folk.

The next morning, we woke up early to get to the outhouse to attend to call of nature. Now, you might wonder where did this come from.... the porters who came along with us dug a hole in the ground and erected a small tent around it to provide for privacy. As can be imagined, if 15 people use the hole, it fills up pretty fast and becomes really really yucky... I learned my lesson and vowed to find my own corner of the world and do my business.

Trampled byY Trip at Saturday, March 28, 2009 0 comments